NYFW: Autumn/Winter Trend Report
Kicking off the first entry of our series of A/W trend reports, Babette Radycliffe-Thomas shows us the sartorial ropes based on the collections of New York Fashion Week.
New York Fashion Week kicked off the autumn winter collections with glamour, drama and controversy. With a hectic schedule spanning eight days, featuring over ninety shows at the Lincoln Center and 250 shows in locations outside of the city, some of the world’s most talented and distinguished designers revealed their Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collections to an eagerly awaiting audience.
The celebrity-filled front rows receive as much attention as the catwalks and this week didn’t disappoint. Jessica Alba, Anna Wintour and Mick Jagger were all spotted and 95-year old legendary New York fashionista Zelda Kaplan died after passing out on the front row.
In the most talked about show of the week, Marc Jacobs models swanked down the catwalk in oversized ‘mad hatter’ style hats, wrapped in huge shawls held together with large safety pins. Jacob’s has come under fire for using 14-year-old models in his show, breaking the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) regulations regarding the use of underage models.
Surprisingly, models strolled down the Victoria Beckham catwalk wearing sturdy biker boots in replace of her trademark towering heels, with many designers also abandoning the heel in favour of practical flats. Victoria’s military-style collection featured her signature figure-hugging dresses and even showcased her new gorgeous ‘Harper’ handbag named after her adorable baby girl.
Oriental designs graced many catwalks this fashion week. Josie Natori turned to Mongolia as her obi belts, kimono tops and glamorous evening-wear reiterated her mark as a ready-to-wear designer. Jason Wu’s luxurious collection looked to China with sophisticated tailoring and Oriental-style detailing for stylish urban chic.
Leather and luxurious details are a key autumn/winter 2012 trend and Alexander Wang’s leather boots matched with shiny oversized knits were an edgy youthful take on the trend. Catwalks everywhere displayed longer hemlines reflecting a 1960s and 1970s influence as shown by Derek Lam’s doily-print dresses matched with smoky eyes.
Michael Kors’ chunky knits and tweed coats showed how to remain stylish next winter, while Marchesa’s voluminous lace dresses provided elegant evening wear. Berry colours in rich luxurious fabrics are must-have for next season, and as the exhilarating New York Fashion Week draws to an extremely apt finale with Ralph Lauren’s British heritage collection, London Fashion Week is sure to be just as exciting and glamorous.